"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do"
- Warren Miller
Wise words from one of the true LA legends, and we couldn't agree more with the sentiment. Playing off the notable quotables, I think the Beach Boys said it perfectly, "let's go surfing now, everybody's learning how, come on a safari with me."
Nobody can deny the sheer elegance with which surfers navigate the waves. Mother nature provided the playground and the invitation has been sent, so what are you waiting for? Imagine yourself, paddling forward, eyes to the shore, as the energy of the ocean swells to propel you forward. Suddenly, your arms are rendered unnecessary as the wave takes control and welcomes you in for a ride, saltwater gently splashing your face as you embrace a walk on the water. If the thought of it all sounds magical, then it's time to make it happen because once again, "if you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do."
Surfing, in many ways, is like golf. You can go in a group, or you head out for a solo mission. And just like golf, surfing is a sport that will welcome you with open arms well into an advanced age with relatively low impact.
Cardio is key, and I don't care how many times you've walked into a gym, how many miles you've run, when you paddle out for the first time, you will feel something in places and muscles you didn't even know you had! Ha. That's not dissuade you by any stretch, but to encourage you that you'll be getting a proper work out while hopefully not getting completely worked by the waves! Precisely why you need to pick the proper location, and consider very strongly some instruction, as opposed to just diving in and figuring it out on the go.
Studies out of Australia's Southern Cross University demonstrate much high levels of geriatric coordination in those who've surfed relative to particularly active individuals who did not take time to surf. Surf to save yourself!
Nobody can argue with embracing a meditative state of mind. Take Jerry Seinfeld, for example, who accredits daily meditation to much of his success in honing his observational comedic prowess. Speaking from experience, there's really nothing quite like it; paddling out, that is. Some of my favorite times on the water, were simply sitting on top of my board on some wonderfully sunny days in malibu, outside of the lineup, not fighting for any waves, but rather enjoying the calm and serenity of essentially finding that "out-of-bounds" area, which you can easily understand is not often synonymous with Los Angeles.